Part 1: Reykjavik to Vik

Team Mule setting off

We finally set off down the dangerously busy highway out of Reykjavik on 12pm on Tuesday after stocking up on supplies. Apart from almost being wiped out by a few cars, our first hitch was when Miles failed to unclip from his pedals correctly, doing a stationary stack at a petrol station. An hour or so after we´d hit the road, we realised that we had started heading up highway north instead of south and had to backtrack to an alternate route?

It didn't take long to realise we were in for a tough ride

This led us into a rainy mountainous path where we quickly realised we were in for some hard times. By mid afternoon we reached þingvellir, the site for the oldest parliament in the world and existing on the edge of a tectonic plate creating spectacular views. We were largely unable to enjoy the vista as our hands and feet were ice blocks. The visitor centre served as a storm shelter while we re-energized and changed into warmer clothes. The weather remained the same for the rest of the afternoon and it was an extremely long, slow, 90km ride to Selfoss service station. Deliriously we gorged 3 free coffees each, hot dogs, ice creams and other junk - we were never so happy to reach civilization.

Icelandic cuisine: The sheep's head almost tempted us

Now we were paying for our 3 months of indulgence in Central America. The warm showers at the campsite were a godsend and set us into good spirits for the next days 80km ride to Seljalandsfoss.


The route to Seljandsfoss was relatively flat but we couldn´t continue onto our final destination inland, þorsmörk as it involved crossing glacial rivers, so we took a bus with intent to return the following afternoon. The campsite supplied a lukewarm slime bath for us to bathe our sore muscles in as the showers were not working. The following day we took the morning to explore the mind boggling glacial sculpted area by foot, it was exceptional apart from unnecessarily crossing 7 freezing cold glacial rivers with no shoes on. The graphic images display the effect on Benedict´s withered stumps.

Slime bath of delight?

Glacial river crossings

We returned to Seljalandfoss by 4pm and biked on to Skogar, another exceptional waterfall which provided our campsite for the evening. This was Icelandic camping at its best.

Crazy creek chair Muel and yoda Benedict suffering from frostbite

Our last day riding with Muel led us across a treacherous mountain pass to puffin-country "Vik" where rain started plummeting down as we started ascending the biggest beast of a hill we´ve encountered. The ride down from the top made it all worthwhile resembling the Scottish highlands. We trekked up the nearby 150m cliff face to view puffin nesting from above, unfortunately we didn´t get closer than 30m from the delicious animal.

Road into Vik

Where are the puffins?

Today Muel has left the group and headed back to Reykjavik then London. We awoke this morning to find Muel´s tent poles snapped from severe winds which we must ride 70km into to our next destination! It´s now 1:15pm and we're a bit worried! Thank you to the puffin hotel for their use of laptop and fast internet connection.

Our Mascot: Cocobolo Mono

Cocobolo´s throne

In honour of our fundraising mission, we have named our mascot who joined us in San Cristobal Mexico "Cocobolo Mono", mono being monkey in Spanish. So far he has enjoyed his easy ride perched on top of Miles' panniers, silently observing the landscape and providing thoughtful reflection and encouragement. Due to several rain showers, his colour has already faded, stay tuned to see how he fares in the harsh Icelandic elements.

Seljalandsfoss

Reflecting on our journey so far

Prelude to Pain

As we flew into Keflavik airport at 1am, 50km out of Reykjavik a little worse for wear, we realised we were somewhere unique, the sun was already rising, the landscape completely devoid of trees. After some long waits, we collected 2 out of 3 bikes from the airport, Benedict's needing collection the next day from the cargo bay. Luckily, our friend Phil who resides in Reykjavic provided us with a comfortable sanctuary prior to setting out on our trip. Our first day in the country was a bank holiday with great weather, allowing us to stock up and explore the town of Reykjavic.

Intense training awaiting our flight to Iceland

Our first encounter with a local.

Admiring the etheral beauty of the Hallgrimskirkja Church.

Taking in the town on our new mode of transport.

Reykjavik's backdrop

Expensive preparation

New York provided a valuable stop-off for buying the majority of our equipment. As you can see it was an expensive ordeal, but the investment will pay dividends when facing unexpected summer ice storms.

The talented Muel fires up

For the start of our journey we're lucky enough to have our good friend Sam aka Muel joining us for 7 days. Prior to our flight he fires up with his dual guitars.

Jungle Cuisine

On number of occasions whilst immersing ourselves in jungle fever, Benedict's appetite almost brought him to a deadly level of intimacy. One of these beasts could almost constitute an entire meal!

1. Consuming Cave Spiders

2. Titillating Tarantula

3. Grasshopper Garnish

Training in Central America

Miles and I have been enjoying ourselves thoroughly on our journey northwards from Costa Rica through Nicaragua, El Salvador, Guatemala, Belize, Cuba and finally Mexico. Along the way we have experienced first-hand the beauty and diversity of tropical rainforests in the region as well as getting into training by climbing 4 volcanoes, a couple of waterfalls and other hikes.

Our first volcano experience up Volcano Telica in Nicaragua was a 5 hour climb in light wind and drizzle. As we neared the crater, winds picked up to an incredible speed. As rain started whipping our face we began to consider that this may not be the best place to camp. Upon reaching the crater, our visibility was about 10m, all our possessions were beyond soaked, and the only solution our American friends could come up with was to light up a cigarette. We abandoned all hope of camping in the crater and began to make our decent late afternoon, the pathways had turned to rivers and large trees began to be uprooted. Halfway down a rescue team had been sent to get us as Hurricane Alma had crossed the coast. At this point we were really wishing our guide had checked the weather forecast! Needless to say, we survived the ordeal, and were even more determined to conquer some volcanoes in the future.

The only photo after the Hurricane

Guatemala presented us with 3 further volcano climbs, a beautiful 2 hour climb up active volcano Pacaya where we dipped our walking sticks into running lava.

Brilliant specimen

Stick sacrifices

The next day, Miles and I decided to up the ante and mountain bike up and down Volcan Agua, next to the city of Antigua. A gruelling 1.5 hours of all vertical ascent saw us near the top, which was followed by some hair raising downhill through the rocky paddocks of local corn farmers. Miles and my inexperience shon through as we both managed to flip over handbars on steep downhill portions, luckily unhurt rolling through newly plowed and suprisingly soft cornfields.

Conquering Volcan Agua

A week later I foolishly decided to climb our steepest volcano ¨San Pedro¨ at 6am on a Saturday morning after a few too many beverages the previous night and housing a stomach bug caught a week previously in Antigua. After 3 hours of vertical climb, we had the most beautiful view of 7 towns scattered around lake Atilan. After struggling down again I fell into bed for the next 5 days with a terrible sickness, something a course of antibiotics managed to resolve.

Deliriously sick halfway up San Pedro

The view was worth it from the top of San Pedro

Getting intimate with the rainforest


Rulers of Tikal

Enjoy the photos and please consider donating to our cause! Our adventure begins on the 3rd of August which is only 3 weeks away and we´re only a quarter of the way to our target!

Cheers,
Miles and Benedict