Part 2: Vik to Eglistaðir

Moments after completing our last blog entry we were punished by 60-80km/h head-on winds on route to our next destination, forcing us to ride slower than we could walk. After a couple of kilometres we declared defeat and rode back to Vik and caught the bus to the next town, Skaftafell. We camped at the base of the biggest glacier in Europe where icy cold glacial winds sweeping over the campsite made for an unbearably freezing night. Miles has had a number of extremely frustrating camping "incidents" the worst being when he had to derobe 3 times, running around in the freezing cold collecting change for the shower machine (it takes 4 x 50K pieces), as the bloody machine ate his money. We have also had a little difficulty with our trangia stove for the first week. The first fuel Miles bought wasn't flammable at all, and the second was hugely flammable, blackening our brand new equipment with a giant fire ball! Until now we had been grateful to borrow other people's gas burners.

Glacial walk

Entry to underground ice river

Demonstrating his fury on the icy slopes

The view energized us

Glacial tongue

Svartifoss hexagonal basalt columns

Benedict staring death in the face

Skaftafell National Park entertained us with a surreal 5 hour glacial walk followed by a strenuous 6 hour hike through the mountains above campsite in the national park where we had spectacular views and collected wild blueberries to be added to a delicious porridge breakfast. As always, Benedict was the guinea pig to see if they were poisonous -- the only side-effect being deliciousness!

Gathering wild blueberries

The following day we were faced with more extruciating head-on winds, but our efforts were rewarded with a visit to the gorgeous Jökusarlson glacial lagoon, resembling an Antartic landscape. Some fellow Spanish bikers, conivingly drafted behind us the whole way and were annoyingly composed at the next campsite but offered us free Spanish nougats for our assistance.

Jökusarlson was frosty

Cocobolo ponders with his head above the clouds

Dancing with Cocobolo

The previous days continual exertion against headwinds had begun to weaken Benedict´s fragile knees, which only allowed the meagre 60km journey to Höfn, the next major port of call. After eying up the deliciously healthy livestock alongside our route, we couldn´t resist to indulge in a massive marinated pork feast for dinner.

Happily insulated and succulent

Clouds meeting the mountains

An early 6am start the following day took us 106km to Djupivogur. The day was glorious as we entered the spectacular eastern fjords... until we encountered our first gravel road. Our withered muscles struggled to cycle up the steep inclines as massive semi-travels showered us in rocks as they charged past. By the end of the day we atrophied our bodies and brains by melting awaying in the 42 degree hot tub of the local swimming pool. nice.

Welcome to gravel country

Excessive deep heat application

Curbing alcoholism by creating ridiculously short opening hours

Our next day involved covering a massive distance hugging the coastal route around the epic fjords, completing a record day of 112km. Struggling our way through steep gravel sections was rewarded by visiting the dazzling collection of stones in Granny Petra's geological wonderland (the most visited place in Eastern Iceland). Our camping experience at Faskruðsfjorður was one of the best yet, as we were one of only 3 people at the site, looking over the panaromic fjord - plus it was free!

A sample of Petra's amazing lifetime collection

Heart attack after inflating thermarest mattress

Yesterday's we cycled 50km around the head of another fjord, only to discover a tunnel shortcut which would have saved us much pain, luckily the view was worth it! After lunch we had to cross our first significant mountain pass, cycling uphill to 600m above sea leavel, soon after to be rewarded by 40 minutes of pure downhill bliss in Eglistaðir for the night.

The pocket llama finds its centre of gravity before tackling the mountain pass

Help us reach our target!

Australia http://www.mycause.com.au/fundraise.php?mode=frpage&id=419

UK http://www.mycharitypage.com/themules/

Part 1: Reykjavik to Vik

Team Mule setting off

We finally set off down the dangerously busy highway out of Reykjavik on 12pm on Tuesday after stocking up on supplies. Apart from almost being wiped out by a few cars, our first hitch was when Miles failed to unclip from his pedals correctly, doing a stationary stack at a petrol station. An hour or so after we´d hit the road, we realised that we had started heading up highway north instead of south and had to backtrack to an alternate route?

It didn't take long to realise we were in for a tough ride

This led us into a rainy mountainous path where we quickly realised we were in for some hard times. By mid afternoon we reached þingvellir, the site for the oldest parliament in the world and existing on the edge of a tectonic plate creating spectacular views. We were largely unable to enjoy the vista as our hands and feet were ice blocks. The visitor centre served as a storm shelter while we re-energized and changed into warmer clothes. The weather remained the same for the rest of the afternoon and it was an extremely long, slow, 90km ride to Selfoss service station. Deliriously we gorged 3 free coffees each, hot dogs, ice creams and other junk - we were never so happy to reach civilization.

Icelandic cuisine: The sheep's head almost tempted us

Now we were paying for our 3 months of indulgence in Central America. The warm showers at the campsite were a godsend and set us into good spirits for the next days 80km ride to Seljalandsfoss.


The route to Seljandsfoss was relatively flat but we couldn´t continue onto our final destination inland, þorsmörk as it involved crossing glacial rivers, so we took a bus with intent to return the following afternoon. The campsite supplied a lukewarm slime bath for us to bathe our sore muscles in as the showers were not working. The following day we took the morning to explore the mind boggling glacial sculpted area by foot, it was exceptional apart from unnecessarily crossing 7 freezing cold glacial rivers with no shoes on. The graphic images display the effect on Benedict´s withered stumps.

Slime bath of delight?

Glacial river crossings

We returned to Seljalandfoss by 4pm and biked on to Skogar, another exceptional waterfall which provided our campsite for the evening. This was Icelandic camping at its best.

Crazy creek chair Muel and yoda Benedict suffering from frostbite

Our last day riding with Muel led us across a treacherous mountain pass to puffin-country "Vik" where rain started plummeting down as we started ascending the biggest beast of a hill we´ve encountered. The ride down from the top made it all worthwhile resembling the Scottish highlands. We trekked up the nearby 150m cliff face to view puffin nesting from above, unfortunately we didn´t get closer than 30m from the delicious animal.

Road into Vik

Where are the puffins?

Today Muel has left the group and headed back to Reykjavik then London. We awoke this morning to find Muel´s tent poles snapped from severe winds which we must ride 70km into to our next destination! It´s now 1:15pm and we're a bit worried! Thank you to the puffin hotel for their use of laptop and fast internet connection.

Our Mascot: Cocobolo Mono

Cocobolo´s throne

In honour of our fundraising mission, we have named our mascot who joined us in San Cristobal Mexico "Cocobolo Mono", mono being monkey in Spanish. So far he has enjoyed his easy ride perched on top of Miles' panniers, silently observing the landscape and providing thoughtful reflection and encouragement. Due to several rain showers, his colour has already faded, stay tuned to see how he fares in the harsh Icelandic elements.

Seljalandsfoss

Reflecting on our journey so far

Prelude to Pain

As we flew into Keflavik airport at 1am, 50km out of Reykjavik a little worse for wear, we realised we were somewhere unique, the sun was already rising, the landscape completely devoid of trees. After some long waits, we collected 2 out of 3 bikes from the airport, Benedict's needing collection the next day from the cargo bay. Luckily, our friend Phil who resides in Reykjavic provided us with a comfortable sanctuary prior to setting out on our trip. Our first day in the country was a bank holiday with great weather, allowing us to stock up and explore the town of Reykjavic.

Intense training awaiting our flight to Iceland

Our first encounter with a local.

Admiring the etheral beauty of the Hallgrimskirkja Church.

Taking in the town on our new mode of transport.

Reykjavik's backdrop

Expensive preparation

New York provided a valuable stop-off for buying the majority of our equipment. As you can see it was an expensive ordeal, but the investment will pay dividends when facing unexpected summer ice storms.

The talented Muel fires up

For the start of our journey we're lucky enough to have our good friend Sam aka Muel joining us for 7 days. Prior to our flight he fires up with his dual guitars.